Thai Street Food
Thai Street Food Challenge
Written by Richard Barrow   
Wednesday, 01 September 2010 02:11

One of the best things about living in Thailand is the food. It is not only delicious, but it is also plentiful and cheap. In fact, you can find it on almost any street corner at any time of day or night. I guess we are spoilt in Thailand in having such easy access to Thai food. After all, one meal in a Thai restaurant in say London, New York or Sydney would probably be the same as our weekly food budget. I know that is not really fair to compare as portion sizes in the West are far greater than what we get here. In addition, if you order say chicken curry in a London restaurant you are actually going to get a fair amount of meat. Here you will probably get a lot of bone and a bit of meat! Basically you get what you pay for.

As you probably know, I love to cook. So, I don't actually go out and buy street food that much. If I am going to eat green curry, I like to have a good amount of quality meat in it. If I am going to have stir-fried vegetables, I want to make sure that it isn't sweetened with a lot of sugar or "flavoured" with a tablespoon of MSG. I also like playing around with recipes mixing Thai and Western recipes to create my own innovations. It is fun. Cooking for myself also means that I can have more Western meals. Variety is always good I think. I don't live in Bangkok and we don't get much of a choice here in Samut Prakan.

One of the downsides to cooking at home is the cost. If you are buying quality ingredients or cooking Western meals then it is going to cost you more than the average meal bought on the street. Electricity is also expensive and my cooker and oven contribute greatly to my electricity bill. In the West we cook at home in order to save money. If we go out we might prepare sandwiches and a flask of hot soup. In Thailand, in theory, it is the opposite. I think a lot of us would say that it is actually cheaper to eat out every night. Of course, that doesn't mean dining at five star hotels every evening and drinking wine or beer. You can easily go through a lot of money that way.

Eating out for us is going to a local food shop or buying something from a food cart. Something that I don't do nearly enough. Which is what gave me the idea for this food challenge. I decided for one month that I would eat nothing but Thai street food. This would be three meals a day, seven days a week. I am not allowed to go to supermarkets, restaurants or even 7-Eleven. At home I cannot cook or even heat things up. I won't even be allowed to boil some water to make a cup of coffee. Quite a few Thai families don't have a working kitchen. Or if they do then it is just a single gas hob. What I want to see is if I will really save money by eating out for every meal. I have already made a note of how much I spend weekly at the supermarket and also the monthly average for my electricity bill.

To make it a bit more interesting, and certainly more challenging, I am not allowed to eat the same dish twice. Straight away this means I will be eating at least 90 different dishes in one month! I am not sure if that is even possible. In addition, I cannot return to the same food shop, food cart, stall or food vendor twice in the same week. To be honest, I am not sure how easy it is going to be for me. Breakfast is certainly going to be a challenge. My Soi doesn't sell much in the morning and I have to be at work by 7.15 a.m. So, I might have to do what many Thai people do and eat leftovers from the night before. Though, of course, for me it has to be something new bought the night before. I was never one for eating spicy food so early in the morning!

My Thai Street Food challenge starts on Wednesday 1st September 2010 and will last until the end of the month. I will be posting pictures of every meal as well as running costs on my new Twitter account @EnjoyThaiFood.com. I will also be posting daily updates over at www.EnjoyThaiFood.com. As I will be exploring the Thai food scene in Paknam a lot over the next month, I decided I should also take the opportunity to do a survey about Thai food. So, I will be working on a food map and making notes of what kind of food is being sold the most. I will also take notes about the kinds of places that are selling food. I will then write about my findings here at the end of the month. So, what do you reckon? Will it really be cheaper for me to eat out for every meal? Will I be saving money or will I just be putting on a lot of weight? Let's see!

 
Thai Food Challenge Day 01
Written by Richard Barrow   
Wednesday, 01 September 2010 11:54

This is day one for my 30 day challenge to eat street food for every meal. I started today with pathongko together with nam tao hoo (ปาท่องโก๋ น้ำเต้าหู้). This is sometimes translated as Chinese Doughnuts though it is shaped like an "X". The drink that comes with this deep fried dough is sweetened soy milk. This set cost me only 10 baht. This is not really a traditional Thai brekafast but as it is often sold early in the morning then many people eat it at this time. I bought it at a stall near my house and they usually sell out by 9 a.m.


For lunch I had one of my favourite street food. It is khao mun gai tod (ข้าวมันไก่ทอด) which is fried chicken on rice that has been boiled in chicken stock. It also comes with some soup. An alternative is to have boiled chicken which I will have another day. Normal price for this is 25 baht but I ordered "piset" which was 30 baht.


I bought my evening meal at the monthly Paknam Food Festival in Samut Prakan. It is called krapho pla (กระเพาะปลา) which is a thick soup that has fish stomach, boiled duck blood in cubes, bamboo shoots, chicken and quail eggs! It cost 30 baht. I don't normally eat this dish but I thought I shouldn't just stick to all my favourites in the first week!


I decided to finish the day off with a dessert called sangkaya fakthong (สังขยาฟักทอง). This is a pumpkin custard which cost only 25 Baht. It is good but it was very filling! So, I managed to survive my first full day of Thai street food. Today I spent 95 baht on food which is about US$3.70.

 
Thai Food Challenge Day 02
Written by Richard Barrow   
Thursday, 02 September 2010 12:21

For my second day, I had something for breakfast that I wouldn't normally have. But, it is something I will have to get used to! I bought this the night before near Paolo Memorial Hospital. It is kuay jub nam kon (ก๋วยจั๊บ) which is noodle soup with boiled giblets. This dish has various pork giblets in a soy sauce gravy. They also sell a version with clear soup. As you can see there is also a hardboiled egg. This cost 30 baht. It was alright but a bit too much for breakfast!


Lunch today was bought at one of my favourite shops for this dish. It is not easy to write this in Roman letters but it is pad si ew (ผัดซีอิ๊ว) which is noodles pan fried in dark soy sauce. There is also pork, an egg and vegetables. When you order you have to choose which kind of noodles that you want. I like the wide noodles which are called "sen yai". This was 30 baht.


For dinner this evening I went to Taiban Circle where there are many stalls set up in the late afternoon. I think I will be coming back here quite a few times. The meal I had was khao moo daeng (ข้าวหมูแดง) which is red pork on rice. You sometimes get a few slices of a hard boiled egg but none at this stall. This cost 30 baht.

Today I spent 90 baht on food which is about $2.90 Come back tomorrow to see what I will eat next in this 30 day Thai Street Food Challenge.

 
Thai Food Challenge Day 03
Written by Richard Barrow   
Friday, 03 September 2010 13:04

This is the third day of my Thai Street Food Challenge. For breakfast this morning I was able to have a more traditional Thai breakfast. It is johk (โจ้ก). This is thick rice soup or congee. Although some shops sell it only in the morning, locally they sell 6-10 a.m., you should be able to find it at any time of day or night. This one came with pork which is common. They usually also add to this some liver, chopped spring onion and thin slices of ginger. This is done in front of you so easy to ask them to leave anything out. To add a raw egg is an extra 5 baht. So, this breakfast was only 20 baht.


Lunch today is a bit spicy for some people but it is still a favourite. It is pad gra pao moo sup kai dao (ผัดกระเพราหมูสับไข่ดาว) which is minced pork stirfried with chilli and basil. For 5 baht extra you can add a fried egg (kai dao). This dish was 30 baht. I often cook this one myself at home. It is not that difficult.


My dinner tonight was gai tod (ไก่ทอด). Thai people love to have fried chicken. That is why KFC is so popular. But you can get just as good fried chicken on the streets at a cheaper price. My local Muslim vendor is very popular and it doesn't take him long to sell out. This dish was 30 baht.


To go with my fried chicken, I bought a salad from a nearby vendor. The Thais use the same word as us. They sell them in plastic bags. Sometimes you get a hard boiled egg or some pieces of chicken. You also get some kind of salad cream. Seems to be more popular these days. This was 25 baht.

Today I spent 105 baht on street food for three meals. That is about $3.38. You can now follow my food challenge on a google map.

 
Thai Food Challenge Day 04
Written by Richard Barrow   
Saturday, 04 September 2010 12:15

I am now on the fourth day of the Thai Street Food Challenge. The rainy season is not the best time of year to do this challenge! Woke up to rain this morning but had to go out to find some street food. Nothing locally so had to go further away. For breakfast today I had ba mee tom yum (บะหมี่ ต้มยำ) which is egg noodles in a spicy soup. I bought this at a group of food vendors next to the city pillar. They advertised it as being "boran" meaning "old style" or "authentic". It was alright but I prefer cooking my own version! This one was 30 baht.


For lunch I had something a bit spicy. It is pad kee mao (ผัดขี้เมา). I had a choice between having it served on rice or with noodles. A translation of the latter is "drunken noodles"! Apparently this spicy meal is good to have after a heavy nights drinking. It cost 30 baht and I bought it at a food shop near my house.


For my evening meal I headed to Taiban Circle where there are always a lot of food stalls that come out in the late afternoon. I chose yen ta foh ta-lay (เย็นตาโฟทะเล) which is noodles in a red soup with seafood. Incidentally, I don't really like eating seafood dishes that much but will have to get used to it for this challenge! You can choose the type of noodle to go with it. I chose "sen lek". My favourite type is "ba mee". This was 30 baht. Before I forget, when you eat at a food stall, the water in the jugs on the table is free but they might charge you 2 baht for the ice.

Today I spent 90 baht on street food for three meals. That is about $2.88. You can now follow my food challenge on a google map.

 
Thai Food Challenge Day 05
Written by Richard Barrow   
Sunday, 05 September 2010 11:55

I have now reached the fifth day of my 30 day Thai Street Food Challenge. Today I had something a bit more traditional for breakfast though I couldn't actually find anyone around here selling it! I had to buy it last night in a food shop in Taiban. It is Khao Tom (ข้าวต้มเครื่อง). This basically translates as rice soup. On the food cart I had a choice of extras like pork, chicken or fish. Prices ranged from 30 baht to 50 baht. I had the 30 baht meal with pork khao tom moo (ข้าวต้มหมู). They gave me a packet of dried chilli and sugar which I added after I took this picture.


For lunch I had some noodles from a local shop. This is similar to one I had before though this version has clear soup. It is called kuay jub nam sai (ก๋วยจั๊บน้ำใส). It has pork giblets as well as the noodles. This cost 30 baht which seems to be the average for a street side meal these days.


This evening I went to Racha Market where I am always spoilt for choice. There are about 50 or so food carts here starting from about 4 p.m. Today I had hoi tod (หอยทอด) which is mussels fried in a batter. They also add an egg to the mixture. I don't normally eat this dish as I don't like mussels, but this one was alright. It cost 30 baht.


On the walk home I stopped to buy some roti sai kai (โรตี ใส่ไข่) which is a normal roti with an egg added. The roti normally costs 3-5 baht each. You can see a pile of them on the left of this picture. To add an egg costs 8 baht. She also put on it condensed milk and sugar so quite sweet. Delicious too. But I shouldn't make a habit of this.

Today I spent 98 baht on street food for three meals. That is about $3.14. You can now follow my food challenge on a google map.

 
Thai Food Challenge Day 06
Written by Richard Barrow   
Monday, 06 September 2010 17:08

This is now the sixth day of my 30 day Thai Street Food Challenge. Finding a good breakfast is certainly proving to be challenging. Not that I don't like my choice for today, it is just that I don't normally eat something spicy so early in the morning. For breakfast today I had Yum pla dook foo (ยำปลาดุกฟู). This is fried catfish in a spicy salad. Very delicious. I bought it last night at Racha Market for only 25 baht.


I was planning on having som tam for lunch at my favourite stall but he was closed. So, I decided to buy khao pad gai (ข้าวผัดไก่) at my local food shop. An easy meal of fried rice with chicken. This cost 30 baht. It is served with cucumber.


I wasn't planning on having any dessert, but as I was walking back from the food shop I passed a cart selling a favourite Thai dessert of mine. It is khanom tuay (ขนมถ้วย). It is made from coconut milk and flour. The green comes from the pandanus leaf which is used a lot around here. When buying you ask how much they are each then you say how much money you want to spend. These were 2 baht each so I asked for 10 baht's worth.

I am afraid I cannot bring you pictures of any Thai Street food for the evening meal. I was planning on eating pad thai at Taiban Circle tonight but I got invited to the World Gourmet Festival at the Four Seasons Hotel in Bangkok. I am not sure if I really cheated as I didn't pay. Can I just pretend I was too full to eat anything when I got back? Click here to see my iPhone pictures of the meal at the Four Seasons. I will add an extra meal on the end to make up for this.

Today I spent 65 baht on two meals. That is about $2.08. You can now follow my food challenge on a google map.

 
Thai Food Challenge Day 07
Written by Richard Barrow   
Tuesday, 07 September 2010 12:50

I have now come to the end of the first week of my 30 day Thai Street Food Challenge. For my breakfast this morning I had an old favourite called khanom krok (ขนมครก). This is a kind of coconut pudding that is often sold in the morning piping hot. It doesn't look much but I found it filling. This was only 10 baht for the box!


For lunch I had another one of my favourites. It is called khao mok gai (ข้าวหมกไก่), which is chicken on yellow rice. The yellow comes from turmeric. You often find it at the same store selling khao mun gai. My local store is run by Muslims. They often run out byu about 2 p.m. This cost only 25 baht.


For my dinner I had khao moo grob (ข้าวหมูกรอบ). This is crispy pork on rice. I bought it at Taiban Circle at the same stall where I bought khao moo daeng the other day. This one was also 30 baht.

Today I spent 65 baht on three meals. This is about $2.08. In my first week of the food challenge I spent a whopping 608 baht on food ($19.50)! You can now follow my food challenge on a google map.

 
Thai Food Challenge Day 08
Written by Richard Barrow   
Wednesday, 08 September 2010 12:10

This is now the start of my second week of the Thai Street Food Challenge. On the morning of day 8 I bought some moo satay (หมูสะเต๊) for breakfast. These are pork but it is also possible to get beef. This can either be a meal or a snack depending on how hungry you are. They cost 3 baht each so I spent 30 baht on this meal. I have seen some places sell them at 2 baht a stick.


Lunch today was one of my favourites from a shop not too far from my house. It is rat naa mee grob (ราดหน้า หมี่กรอบ) which is crispy egg noodles in a thick gravy with pork. I sometimes have sen yai with it which is the wide noodles. The same shop does my favourite pad si ew which I had last week. This dish was 30 baht.


The evening meal was a bit like a hybrid. It is called pad thai hor kai (ผัดไทห่อไข่) which is a cross between the popular pad thai dish and an omelette! It is basically pan fried noodles wrapped in an omelette. The price was 35 baht.

Today I spent 95 baht on three meals. This is about $3.06. It is slightly over my daily average so far of $2.78. You can now follow my food challenge on a google map.

 
Thai Food Challenge Day 09
Written by Richard Barrow   
Thursday, 09 September 2010 14:24

I am now on Day 9 of my 30 day challenge. Still a long way to go! For breakfast this morning I had salapao (ซาลาเปา) which are Chinese steamed buns. These were 10 baht each. They have different ingredients inside so you need to ask them "sai arai". This one has Sai tua dum (ไส้ถั่วดำ) and Sai moo deang (ไส้หมูแดง) which is mung bean and red pork.


There are still a few more noodle dishes to go which I haven't tried yet. For lunch today I had kuay tiao gai mara (ก๋วยเตี๋ยวไก่มะระ), which is chicken noodle with bitter gourd. It was quite tasty. I don't think I have ever had it before. It was only 25 baht.


Where I live there is a mosque nearby and we get a few Muslim dishes around here. My dinner tonight was an old favourite, mataba neua (มะตะบะ เนื้อ) with beef. This is a deep fried pastry which this shop fills with chicken, beef or banana. The beef was 25 baht but the chicken is only 20 baht.

Today I spent 65 baht on three meals. This is about $2.10. You can now follow my food challenge on a google map.

 
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